Spectacular Kyaiktiyo Pagoda: Myanmar’s Inspiring Golden Rock
Kyaiktiyo Pagoda and Golden Rock at night on Mount Kyaiktiyo, Myanmar
Golden Rock and the Kyaiktiyo Pagoda, located at the top of Mt Kyaiktiyo in Myanmar, has been a site of worship for Buddhist devotees for over 2,500 years. I found viewing this truly beautiful structure to be a wonderful experience and I was deeply moved by the devotion of the faithful as I quietly observed them lighting candles, burning incense and chanting in front of the Golden Rock.
Kyaiktiyo Pagoda and the Golden Rock, on which it rests, is a Theravada Buddhist pilgrimage site located at the summit of Mount Kyaiktiyo in Mon State, Myanmar. Kyaiktiyo Pagoda enshrines a strand of Lord Buddha's hair, while another hair relic keeps the precariously perched Golden Rock in place.
People come from all over the world to visit the Kyaiktiyo Pagoda and the Golden Rock. Visiting the site was one of the major highlights of my own, extended visit to Myanmar.
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Kyaiktiyo Pagoda History
Constructed in 574 BCE Kyaiktiyo Pagoda is one of the world's most important pilgrim sites for Buddhists, and the third most important Buddhist pilgrimage site in Myanmar after the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon and the Mahamuni Pagoda in Mandalay.
A pagoda is a multi level tower, built in honor of saints and gods, that functions as a site of worship for Buddhists.
At just 7.3 meters (24 feet) high, the tiny Kyaiktiyo Pagoda may not sound that significant. But, given its position atop a massive gold leaf covered granite boulder, known as the Golden Rock, it’s an extremely impressive sight to behold.
In the Mon language, the word kyaik means “pagoda”, the word yo means “to carry on one’s head” and the word ithi means “hermit”. Therefore, Kyaik-Hti-Yo, which is another name given to the Kyaiktiyo Pagoda, translates as “pagoda on a hermit’s head”.
What Is The Golden Rock In Myanmar?
The Golden Rock is a very large granite boulder that, over many years, has been covered in gold leaf pasted onto it by male worshippers. The site is located at the summit of Mount Kyaiktiyo, 3,625 feet (1,105 meters) above sea level.
There's no doubt that the Golden Rock is the main point of interest on Mount Kyaiktiyo. It's an amazing sight, perched precariously on a 25 foot (7.6 meters) cliff atop Mt. Kyaiktiyo, while balancing the 24 foot (7.3 meters) tall pagoda on top of it.
The Golden Rock itself is 25 feet (7.6 meters) in height and has a circumference of 50 feet (15 meters). The massive boulder weighs an impressive 611.5 tons (611,500 kg).
The Golden Rock sits on a natural rock platform that features an image of a lotus painted in gold leaf around its base. As is evident in my photo at the top of this post, the Golden Rock appears to be wedged in place between the Kyaiktiyo Pagoda and the rock that supports it from below.
What makes this vantage point particular interesting is that it gives the impression that the rock is, somehow, defying gravity and could, at any moment, tumble down the mountain.
I found the whole experience of visiting Mt Kyaiktiyo to be quite magical, particularly at night when I made the photos showcased in this post.
Other than the splendid color of the boulder, what makes the Golden Rock so wondrous to behold is that it's been balancing on a cliff on top of Mount Kyaiktiyo for over 2,500 years.
It is believed that the balance of the rock is dependent upon a single strand of the Lord Buddha's hair that, miraculously, as kept the boulder from falling down the mountainside.
So strong is this symbolism that hundreds of thousands of Burmese visit the site every year. It’s said that just touching the Golden Rock with their hands allows pilgrims to feel closer to the Buddha.
The site is part of a large complex that includes temples, viewing platforms, pagodas and shrines containing images of the Buddha. Several restaurants and guesthouses, situated near the Golden Rock, provide food and shelter for visitors.
The grounds leading to the site are guarded by two large, stone lions which, in the Burmese language translates as Chinthe.
A staircase leads to the pagoda complex that consists of several viewing platforms, pagodas and a variety of shrines, some containing Buddha images and others dedicated to Nat spirits (Burmese folk deities that are also worshipped in Myanmar).
Nearby the Golden Rock is a circle of gongs featuring statues of nats and angels at its centre.
Taking the time to explore the entire complex will add to the richness of your experience and provide an insight into the importance of the Golden Rock complex to Myanmar culture.
Legend Of The Golden Rock and Kyaiktiyo Pagoda
According to legend, the Golden Rock is precariously perched on a strand of the Lord Buddha's hair. Having visited the site I can see that the Golden Rock seems to defy gravity, somehow staying balanced while appearing to be on the verge of rolling down the mountainside.
No doubt, like many thousands of visitors before me, I wondered how this was possible?
As mentioned previously, Kyaik-Hti-Yo translates as “pagoda on a hermit’s head”. Let's explore the origins of the mountain's name.
Legend tells that Lord Buddha visited the area and, during his stay, presented a particularly devout hermit named Taik Tha, who had chosen to live an isolated life and follow the path of an ascetic, with a strand of his hair. That strand of hair became a relic on which the site was constructed.
It's said that the hermit partitioned the King to enshrine the relic on a boulder that mimicked the shape of a hermit's head.
Fortunately the king had inherited supernatural powers from his father, Zawgyi, an alchemist and his mother, a Naga serpent dragon princess. With assistance from his parents a suitable rock was located, albeit at the bottom of the sea.
The legend continues that, with the help of Thagyamin, the ruler of Tawadeintha Heaven in Buddhist cosmology, Mt Kyaiktiyo was chosen as a suitable site for this most holy shrine.
The king had a ship constructed to carry the rock to the top of the mountain. It's believed that it's the Buddha's hair, enshrined within the pagoda that sits atop the boulder, that prevents the Golden Rock from tipping from its precarious position and falling down the mountain.
The legend also tells that the boat that transported the boulder turned into stone upon its arrival. Interestingly, a large boulder shaped somewhat like a boat can be found around 980 feet (300 meters) from the Golden Rock. The boulder has a stupa on it called Kyaukthanban Pagoda, which translates as stone boat stupa.
Key Facts About The Golden Rock and Kyaiktiyo Pagoda
Kyaikhtiyo Pagoda is believed to enshrine a hair relic from the Buddha.
The 24 feet (7.3 meter) tall Kyaiktiyo Pagoda sits atop the huge Golden Rock, which is entirely covered with gold leaf.
Spire Height: 49 feet (15 meters), including the Golden Rock on which it rests.
Location: Kyaiktiyo Pagoda is located at the summit of Mount Kyayktiyo, which rises to 3609 feet (1,100 meters) above sea level.
The site is 9.9 miles (16 km) from Kinpun village in Mon State, Myanmar
Distance from Yangon: 130 miles (210 km) northeast of Yangon
Opening hours: The Golden Rock and Kyaiktiyo Pagoda, and the viewing areas immediately surrounding them, are open 24 hours a day, each and every day of the year.
Entrance fee: USD$6 per person
Pilgrimage season: November to March, when the crowds are busiest
What You Need To Know Before You Journey To The Golden Rock
As is the case at all Buddhist religious sites it's important for all visitors to dress modestly. Long trousers should be worn and shoulders should be covered.
In accordance with tradition associated with a Buddhist sacred site, it's necessary for visitors to remove their shoes and socks and walk barefoot to the Golden Rock.
Tradition dictates that only men are permitted to touch the Golden Rock and to place the small, square shaped pieces of gold leaf onto it.
To access the rock men cross a footbridge, spanning an abyss, to set their gold leaf offerings onto the surface of the Golden Rock.
Unfortunately, women are not allowed to touch the rock and, therefore, are not permitted to cross the footbridge.
The good news is that there's plenty of space around the Golden Rock pagoda for all to marvel at its beauty. And I recommend doing so for an extended period of time. Personally, I found doing so was a mesmerizing and deeply spiritual experience.
There’s an area close to the Golden Rock containing businesses that cater to the needs of pilgrims. Next to that you’ll find Potemkin village where restaurants, gift shops and guests houses are located.
Mount Kyaiktiyo can be a very busy place, particularly during the full moon festival of Tabaung, when thousands of visitors light up to 90,000 candles on site.
That would be an amazing experience to witness. However, accommodation options would be scant, at best, and transport up the mountain during the festival might be hard to obtain.
My advice would be to plan your trip in advance and check with your hotel or guesthouse in Yangon or Bago before undertaking a journey to the Golden Rock during Tabaung.
How To Get To Mount Kyaiktiyo and The Golden Rock Pagoda
The Golden Rock Pagoda is located 3609 feet (1,100 meters) above sea level on the summit of Mount Kyaiktiyo. Close to Kyaikto township, the Golden Rock is 67 miles (108 km) east of Bago and 130 miles (210 km) northeast of Yangon.
While the distances aren't great, the journey to the Golden Rock pagoda is quite an adventure. Allow the best part of a day to make the trip, and prepare yourself for what most tourists would consider a hard and difficult ascent up the mountain.
You can visit Kyaiktiyo Pagoda on a day trip from Yangon, however staying overnight on the summit does provide you with the opportunity to view the Golden Rock and witness the devotion of the pilgrims at sunset, at various times throughout the night and at sunrise the next morning.
If you have time you should stop off at Bago, a city of around 250,000 people known for Buddhist temples and handicrafts.
While in Bago be sure to visit the Shwemawdaw Paya (i.e., Great Golden God) Pagoda. At a height of 374 feet (114 meters) it’s 49 feet (15 meters) taller than the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon.
Built by the Mon over one thousand years ago, Shwemawdaw Paya is the tallest pagoda in all of Myanmar.
Getting To The Golden Rock Pagoda By Bus, Car or Train
Buses run every day of the year to the Golden Rock. You can take a bus from the city of Bago. The journey takes around 2 hours and costs about USD$5. Alternatively, a bus from Yangon takes around 4 hours and costs between USD$7-USD$8.
The quickest way to get from Yangon or Bago is to hire a car and driver. You should be able to organise this from your hotel or guesthouse.
Alternatively, grab a taxi at Yangon Railway Station. If you’re lucky the trip could take as little as 2 ½ hours. Expect to pay between USD $140 and USD $180 for the relative comfort of traveling by taxi.
Likewise, taxis are available from Bago to Kinpun, at the base of Mount Kyaiktiyo, from between USD $130 and USD $170. The trip will likely take around 1 ¾ hours to Kinpun.
It’s now possible to hire cars, from between USD$70 and USD $80 per day, in cities such as Yangon and Mandalay, and drive yourself around various parts of Myanmar.
Personally, I wouldn’t recommend it. There are parts of the country that overseas tourists are not permitted to enter, and I think it’s much safer to trust in the knowledge and driving skills of a local, recommended driver.
Myanmar Railways operates a train from Bago to Kyaiktiyo twice daily. The journey takes just over 2 ½ hours and tickets are available from between USD $2 and USD $8.
Whether you take a bus or hire a car and driver, I recommend your journey begins with an early start from either Yangon or Bago.
Whether you’re traveling by bus, taxi or private car you’ll be taken to Kinpun village at the base of Mount Kyaiktiyo. The drop off point for buses and cars, Kinpun acts as the staging point from which pilgrims and tourists alike begin the ascent up Mount Kyaiktiyo to the Golden Rock.
The Truck Ride Up Mount Kyaiktiyo
From Kinpun many choose to purchase a ticket to travel up the mountain, as I did, in the back of a local truck that’s been fitted out with benches to seat passengers. Expect to pay USD$1 for a pretty uncomfortable and crowded ride.
While I wouldn't say I enjoyed the ride up the mountain, due to it being so uncomfortable, it was a great experience to be huddled so closely to all the local Buddhist folk who, from what I discerned, had travelled from all across Myanmar to visit the Golden Rock.
It's a 30 minute ride up the mountain to where the trucks drop off their passengers. Most folks then walk the rest of the way up to the summit.
Two Very Different Hikes Up Mount Kyaiktiyo
From the final staging point, where the truck drops you off, you're required to hike the rest of the way up to the Golden Rock complex and the nearby visitor facilities.
While not that far I remember this final leg being very steep and pretty tough going, given I was carrying a heavy camera backpack and tripod on my back.
Most folks should be able to hike this final leg of the journey in an hour or so. But, remember, it's steep so pace yourself and be sure to bring plenty of drinking water with you. There are souvenir shops along the way so you should be able to find a place to rest, if you feel the need.
From the bus drop off point porters are available for hire to carry folk up to the summit in the kind of bamboo sedan chair found throughout mountain based pilgrimage sites across much of Asia.
Think of it as a wooden chair, attached to two or more bamboo poles, carried on the shoulders of four porters. It’s a popular option for the elderly, infirmed and those with mobility issues.
It's always a good idea to negotiate a price before undertaking such a journey and, if possible, don't pay until you've completed your return trip back to the truck stop.
Trekking From Kinpun to the Golden Rock Pagoda
An alternative route to the summit is to trek all the way from the village of Kinpun, near the bottom of Mount Kyaiktiyo. But be warned, it's a tough 7 mile (11 km) trek from Kinpun to the Golden Rock Pagoda, which many devotees undertake as part of a pilgrimage rite.
The trek up the mountain is said to take between 3-6 hours, and most folks I’ve spoken to say they did it in 4 hours.
However, if you're up to it, there may well be opportunities to meet pilgrims making their way up and down the Mount Kyaiktiyo. Such meetings can provide great photo opportunities and truly memorable exchanges.
The path consists of a great deal of stone steps, with dirt tracks along the flatter areas that take you up to the truck terminus. From there the path continues for another hour or so up to the Golden Pagoda complex.
Trees and canopies provide a good deal of shade on the path and there’s a variety of kiosks along the way selling religious merchandise.
A pilgrimage to Kyaiktiyo Pagoda is said to bring good fortune and prosperity. Furthermore, it's believed that anyone undertaking the hike all the way from Kinpun to the summit of Mt Kyaiktiyo, three or more times in a year, will be blessed with wealth and respect.
If you're fit and considering making the trek, that knowledge might be just the incentive you need.
A new cable car is said to be planned for Mount Kyaiktiyo. That would certainly make the journey up the mountain less fatiguing.
Then again, there’s the notion that the benefits associated with a pilgrimage are meant to be earned, and I give credit to anyone who’s undertaken the trek all the way from Kinpun to the Golden Rock.
Where To Stay On Mount Kyaiktiyo, Myanmar
While it's possible to overnight in Kingpin, the village at the bottom of Mt. Kyaiktiyo where guesthouse accommodation starts at USD$10, serious devotees often camp in a set aside area near the top of the mountain.
Given they may stay a week or more, this allows pilgrims to more fully immerse themselves in what is a deeply spiritual experience at the Kyaiktiyo Pagoda and the Golden Rock, without having to travel up and down the mountain every day.
I stayed on top of the mountain, just a minute or two from the Golden Rock, in basic guesthouse accommodation.
While anything but fancy, the room was a great choice for my overnight stay as its close proximity to the Golden Rock made it easy for me to undertake sunset, night photography and sunrise shoots just a few minutes walk from my room.
How To Photograph The Golden Rock in Myanmar
The image at the top of this post was made well after sunset. Illumination was provided by a series of artificial lights, similar to the ones on the bottom left of the photo. The warm color cast by these lights further emphasized the golden color of the rock and pagoda.
The exposure time was quite long, in excess of 30 seconds. Naturally, a tripod and a cable release were required to prevent camera movement during the long exposure.
I made the image with the following equipment:
Hasselblad 503CW camera
Hasselblad 150mm f/4 Sonnar lens
Kodak Portra 160VC film
It's important to note that, all the photos I made while visiting the Golden Rock pagoda were created with great care and as much discretion and respect as I could manage. All of these images were made under low light conditions, requiring long exposures, with my Hasselblad medium format camera firmly fixed on a tripod.
While I didn't actually photograph any portraits during my stay, I did make photos that included devotees worshipping at the Golden Rock. At such times I work quietly and discreetly, ensuring I stay an acceptable distance from devotees.
I do not, however, hide my presence, as I feel it's important not to be sneaking around and photographing people completely unawares. There are times when that approach to picture making might be appropriate. But I didn't consider this was one of those times.
As a general rule the Burmese are a gentle and polite people. My experience is that if you approach them quietly and with respect they'll usually allow you to photograph them. What's more many elderly Burmese have a reasonable level of spoken English, given the fact they grew up under British rule.
While I would not interrupt their worship, opportunities to seek permission to photograph local people would be open to you on the road up Mount Kyaiktiyo, and in common areas and around the marketplace on top of the mountain.
Under good weather conditions sunset will usually be the best time to photograph the Golden Rock. This is when it's most likely to glow most splendidly. But sunset is only the beginning of your evening's photography adventure.
The afterglow occurs after the sun has descended below the horizon. If you're lucky the horizon will be clear of clouds, allowing the warm light from the sun to reflect off the sky (and any low lying clouds above) and reflect back down onto the earth.
With luck the afterglow, which can occur 20 or more minutes after the sun has set, will illuminate the Golden Rock with glorious light.
The good news is that, once darkness has descended, the lighting of candles, meditation and chanting continue throughout the night. What’s more, due to its outdoor location the Golden Rock is illuminated throughout the night with spot lights, allowing for a brilliant night photography adventure.
Arriving at the Golden Rock, just before sunset on my second last day in Myanmar, was a thrill. Despite the rush and associated fatigue of the trip, the site of the Golden Rock and the atmosphere that surrounded it made that day a highlight of my time in Myanmar (Burma).
It is a most serene location and, despite the large crowds, the beauty of the location and the devotion of the pilgrims was an experience I will not easily forget.
I was fortunate to have been able to photograph the Golden Rock and Kyaiktiyo Pagoda at sunset, during an extended night photography adventure and at sunrise the following morning.
I would have stayed longer, but I had to rush back to Yangon to catch an onward flight to Bangkok and, from there, to Vientiane in Laos to begin my next adventure.
Returning To Kyaiktiyo And The Golden Rock in Myanmar
Myanmar is a spectacular country with literally thousands of religious sites, beautiful and varied landscapes, and extremely friendly and welcoming people. As long as you follow the rules, and behave in a manner that’s respectful, your own trip should also be a wonderful experience.
While numerous religions are represented in its population, Buddhism is the country's dominant religion. The thing that amazed me most about Myanmar was the sheer number, size and variety of Buddhist holy sites around the country.
If you're looking to extend your time in the area around Kyaiktiyo, there's a number of newly constructed pagodas and temples on nearby hills that are open and accessible by following hiking tracks.
While you could ask for information from a local guesthouse, it's probably a good idea to hire a local guide/translator for a day or two to help you find and explore these sites.
I do plan to return to Myanmar and spend more time exploring and photographing this unique and diverse nation. On my next trip I’m planning for an extended stay at the Golden Rock on the summit of Mount Kyaiktiyo.
In the meantime I plan to post many more film based images, and accompanying stories, from my initial travels throughout Myanmar over coming months.
It’s going to be great to share my 35 mm and medium format film images on this site. Doing so will breathe new life back into them and remind us all of the ever changing face of our world.
And isn’t that one of the reasons why we travel in the first place.
It’s a gift to be able to experience the sublime landscapes, spectacular monuments and intimate village life in countries like Myanmar. And we do so in the knowledge that so much of what we see is fading or changing.
Indeed, change comes at such a rapid rate that the essence, and in some cases the very existence, of these places is threatened. All the more reason to treat your photography seriously, as the photos you create can become time capsules that will grow in importance over the years.
I hope the research I’ve undertaken in preparation for writing this post, together with my photos of the Kyaiktiyo Pagoda and the Golden Rock, has proven to be insightful and helped you appreciate the beauty and importance of this truly splendid Buddhist icon.
