How To Use A Polarizing Filter
A Polarizing filter can save you when photographing under bright, midday sun. Here’s how to use a polarizing filter.
This photo features a detail on top of the visitor gate at the Palace Of Versailles. It was made on a bright, hot day which is the kind of weather that would normally produce quite flat, desaturated images.
I made the photo from a low viewpoint with a polarizing filter and processed the file to emphasize the already high levels of saturation I’d achieved in camera.
Part of the success of this photo is due to me employing a polarizing filter to reduce reflections and, thereby, enhance the colors within the image.
I was wearing high quality sunglasses, but still found myself squinting.
I can tell you I came close to melting into the pavement, with the rest of the crowd, as we waited for the entrance gates to open.
It’s incredible to see just how well a polarizing filter has brought out the vibrant golden color of the ornate decoration and the rich blue color of the sky.
Why You Need A Polarizing Filter
While I love to be out and about on sunny days, it's by no means my favorite weather for making photos.
The bright, direct sunlight hits leaf, grass, tree and stone alike reflecting much of the color and texture off the surfaces in question.
The light reflected off these surfaces is scattered in a way that adversely affects the impact of the image.
Contrast, sharpness and saturation are often diminished when photographing under bright, blue sunny skies.
You know, the very same conditions most folks make photos under.
They’re exactly the conditions I faced when photographing this angel statue holding a wreath and illuminated by warm afternoon light against a brilliant blue.
The light was blinding bright and much of the texture and color was being reflected off the surface of the statue.
Fortunately the polarising filter was able to retain most of that fine texture and color as well as deepening the color of the already blue sky.
To further emphasise the drama I photographed from a low angle of view because I preferred the statue placed against the sky rather than in front of trees which would have served to, metaphorically, ground our angel.
Make Better Photos With A Polarizing Filter
The solution to making photos under very bright light, just as it was in the days of film based photography, is to secure a polarizing filter to your camera.
Simply rotate the filter, while looking through your camera's viewfinder, until the desired effect is achieved.
In addition to maintaining color and texture on the surface of non-metallic surfaces, you'll notice blue skies rendering a deeper shade of blue and clouds appearing fluffier and more three-dimensional.
This short post showcases why B+W Polarizing filters are my favorites.
Circular Polarizing Filter Best Practices
Using the polarizing filter, which is actually two layers of dark grey glass sandwiched together, will result in a loss of light reaching the sensor.
Fortunately your camera’s light meter will adjust automatically to compensate for this loss of light.
Likewise DSLR and mirrorless cameras have no trouble focusing when a Circular Polarizing filter is attached to the front of the lens.
To maintain image quality and reduce the chance of vignetting (i.e., a darkening near the corners of your photos) ensure there's only one filter in front of your lens at a time.
You can think of the polarizing filter as a combination of a UV and polarizing filter in one. There’s no need to keep the UV filter on the lens when the polarizing filter is being used.
Nonetheless, due to the loss of light experienced when using a polarizing filter, I only ever employ one when it's needed.
The rest of the time I protect the front glass element of my lenses with a high quality B+W UV filter.
Polarizing filters work best when the sun is coming from behind the photographer. In the landscape that result in a sky that’s relatively even in illumination.
It’s okay for the sun to be coming over one shoulder, but skies can look pretty weird when the sun’s coming at a more extreme angle (e.g., 90 degrees) to the sky.
It’s ironic as side light is often considered advantageous in landscape photography as it highlights shapes and textures.
But extreme side lighting will emphasize a sky of uneven brightness and you may very well end up with one side of the frame displaying a vivid blue sky, while the other side displays near white.
This problem is even further emphasised when the image is made with a wide angle focal length lens.
So, while polarizing filters are fantastic tools, they either work well or poorly. Sometimes, like when you photographing directly into the sun, they don’t work at all.
That’s because the polarisation is likely happening directly above the camera in an area of sky that’s outside of your composition.
My advice is to have fun with your polarizing filter, but don’t make the mistake of leaving it on all the time. If it’s not working replace it with a quality UV filter and gain yourself one to two stops of extra light.