Spectacular Monkey Forest Ubud: How to Enjoy and Stay Safe
My visit to the Sacred Monkey Forest in Ubud was an amazing experience with great photo opportunities. But is it safe? I only wish I knew then what I know now.
The Sacred Monkey Forest in Ubud is fun to explore. Expect to see lots of monkeys as you follow the stone pathway through the forest. Follow the rules and you should stay safe. But it can be dangerous and monkey bites can kill. If in doubt, join a tour with a local ranger.
The above photo illustrates the beauty that’s on offer inside the Monkey Forest. I was literally one minute’s walk from the entrance when I made this image showcasing an intimate moment between a mother and her infant child.
I love the way the light gently illuminates the infant monkey’s face.
Notice how the infant is reaching out to its mother with one hand, while wrapping its tiny fingers around her thumb with the other.
I just love the tenderness expressed in this image. While it features two monkeys the image is really a study in tenderness and love. Is it not?
Mother and child, is there a greater bond? From my point of view there is not.
Where Is The Monkey Forest?
The Monkey Forest, also known as the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, is a heavily forested and hilly reserve on the edge of Ubud on the spectacular tourist island of Bali in Indonesia.
Strictly speaking the Monkey Forest lies within the village of Padangtegal. However, that’s largely academic as tourists enter the forest from the bottom end of one of Ubud’s busiest shopping streets.
Ubud is a lovely and culturally rich town surrounded by rice paddies and rainforest in Bali’s central foothills.
Regarded as the cultural capital of Bali, Ubud is a center for traditional arts and crafts. In fact the town has the greatest concentration of art galleries on the island.
A local tourist mecca Ubud has plenty of high quality, affordable restaurants and a significant range of accommodation options from which to choose.
The Monkey Forest is a fun place to explore and photograph monkeys in their natural environment.
There are at least 114 different species of trees in the forest as well as a ravine and stream that are accessible via a series of trails.
Facilities on site include the following:
Public hall
Gallery
Open stage
Canteen
First aid centre
Police post
Car parking
Toilets
Monkey Forest Hindu Temples
There are three Hindu temples in the Monkey Forest. My research tells me that these temples were all built in around the year 1350.
Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal, the Great Temple of Death, is where the local personification of Shiva is worshipped.
Pura Beji, also known as Beji Temple, where the Balinese worship the local personificaiton of Gangga.
Pura Prajapati, literally Prajapati Temple, where the local version of the Hindu god, Prajapati, the lord of creatures is worshipped.
These sites offer great opportunities for architectural and documentary photography.
It’s interesting when you can make photos that explore the relationship between the monkeys, the forest and these interesting architectural structures.
It’s a way by which we can understand the deep connection Balinese people have to their religion and to nature.
Skirmishes Between Warring Monkey Tribes
At days end the monkeys become particularly bold and active. This is when the monkey’s take control of their domain and my advice is to take extra care at that time of day.
In fact, after the rangers and other staff have left, you probably shouldn't be inside the Monkey Forest.
A local told me that there are two dominant groups, or tribes, of monkeys in the forest and fights between them often break out late in the day.
You can see the scares of such battles on surviving monkeys during your day time visits. I found it quite sobering to think about the precarious nature of their existence.
Occasionally monkeys are killed when one group invades the territory of the other. I was told that these raids are motivated by three desires on the part of the monkeys.
Territory and resources
Power
Mating opportunities
These simple facts might go some way to explaining our own, tainted psychological evolution.
Monkey Forest Is A Nature Reserve, Not A Zoo
Enjoy the tranquility and beauty of the Monkey Forest and embrace the photo opportunities you’ll likely discover in this lovely rainforest reserve.
This moment showing a monkey perched on a rock while holding a large piece of fruit provided a great opportunity for a photo.
I focused my camera’s lens on the monkey and used a shallow depth of field to visually separate it from the surroundings.
Before squeezing my camera’s shutter release I waited for the moment when the monkey would turn and present itself in profile. I think this results in a stronger image that also appears more candid in nature.
Making candid images is a skill that’s worth pursuing. I’ve written a handy guide to help you make great candid photos.
Just be aware that, while they are somewhat accustomed to humans (even humans with cameras), the monkeys are wild animals.
As you've entered their domain you need to ensure you don't venture too close to them or their young.
Feeding The Balinese Long-Tailed Monkeys
My understanding is that the Balinese long-tailed monkey probably won’t approach you directly or aggressively unless you are carrying food or have moved too close to them or they're young.
During daylight hours, for the most part, you'll be able to observe their interactions and antics quite safely from the path.
What's more you'll often find them gathered on the path, basking in the sunshine or eager to greet you, from what they consider to be a safe distance, in the hope of a quick and easy feed.
The monkeys are well cared for. Bananas are on sale as you enter the reserve and the monkeys are feed sweet potato three times a day by reserve staff.
However, if you have food and they ask for it, you probably do not want to deign the monkeys of some of it, as that may result in an aggressive and, potentially, violent response.
By the way, have you had a tetanus booster over recent years?
Tetanus is one of those vaccinations that you really should consider getting prior to visiting any country, even your own, where there’s a reasonable chance of interacting with animals.
Some basic online research tells me that there is no cure for tetanus and that one out of ten people who contract the disease will die from it.
What’s more puncture wounds that are a result of an animal bite are the most likely to lead to tetanus.
I’m sorry to say that there might also be the risk of rabies resulting from an animal bite.
Here’s a link to a post about an Australian man who was bitten while visiting the Monkey Forest. As a precaution he was and then given a rabies injection.
The Monkey Forest: Photographers Take Extra
Be careful of your bags, particularly those containing even the smallest amount of food, as they can very easily and very quickly be stolen by one or more monkeys.
If you’re wearing a backpack it can become a platform for a monkey to launch itself onto, putting your face in close range of a potentially vicious attack should you unwittingly startle the monkey.
And of course there’s always the chance that one or more parts of your shinny, new DSLR or Mirrorless camera kit could be grabbed and end up disappearing into the canopy.
Tourists Are Bitten Daily In The Monkey Forest
Also be aware that, while cute, monkeys are very strong and very, very quick.
While you're concentrating on recording a special moment through your camera's viewfinder you may not see a monkey coming at you, side on.
But you will, most definitely, feel the result of a monkey attack.
I must admit I was surprised by the report I linked to in the above paragraph. I came upon the information, not from talking to local folk, but after some online research.
I suspect, in most cases, attacks result from tourists behaving in an inappropriate or naive manner.
Bali is, after all, infamous for motorcycle accidents involving tourists.
Please remember that monkeys are wild animals. It’s a privilege to be able to observe and photograph them up close. Nonetheless, we need to respect them in their own domain.
Conclusion: Lessons From The Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary
After all I've written I want to say that, for the most part, my time visiting the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary was a wonderful experience.
Take a look at this image of a Balinese Long-Tailed Monkey climbing a beautifully carved wall in the Monkey Forest.
The carvings are detailed, featuring scenes of traditional village life, while the moss covered stone speaks to the relationship between the structure and the forest environment.
I also love the expression on the monkey’s face and how it’s warm colored fur both contrasts and picks up similar colors in the moss and reddish brown stone wall.
Most of the research I've undertaken for this post was done after the fact. If I'd known what I know now I may not have visited at day's end, as I was the only person in the rainforest at the time.
It was not a deliberate strategy. The fact is that, after spending time looking for a present for my dear old mum, I simply arrived at the site later in the day than what I’d planned.
I certainly felt a growing sense of activity and aggression amongst elements of the monkey population as I emerged from the Monkey Forest at day's end.
I remember thinking that I had been in their domain at the time of day that belonged to them.
On my next return to Bali I'II revisit the Monkey Forest but, this time around, I'II visit during official open hours and, perhaps, tag along with one of the local rangers.
It makes sense to visit at a time of day when the Monkeys are accustomed to groups of people wandering about in their world, particularly when you’re accompanied by a local guide.
And that's exactly what I would advise you to do.
Travel is not without risk and photography places us, on occasions, in risky situations.
It's simply a matter of understanding the risks and doing what needs to be done to minimize those risks so that you can make the most of your experience and record it in a relatively safe manner.
Ubud is a fantastic and very beautiful town with lots of opportunities to explore Bali’s unique culture and pristine natural environment.
Perhaps, like me, you’ll include the Monkey Forest in your itinerary when you visit Ubud.
Whatever you decide to do I hope you’re able to stay well and safe during all your travel photography adventures.