Snaefellsnes Peninsula Iceland: Myth and Delights Await You
Lóndrangar basalt cliffs and sea, Snaefellsnes Peninsula, West Iceland.
If ever you get the opportunity to visit Iceland you really should make the effort to go beyond the Golden Circle tourist trail and visit the wonderful Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Here’s what I found in doing so.
The Snaefellsnes Peninsula, located around 2 hours drive from Reykjavík in West Iceland, offers the visitor fantastic coastal scenes, mountains, glaciers, lava fields and picturesque churches. A 2 to 3 day itinerary will reward the adventurous traveler with a rich and varied range of experiences.
The Lóndrangar basalt cliffs on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula
The Lóndrangar basalt cliffs are amongst the many geological wonders of the Snæfellnes peninsula.
You’ll find the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs, also known as the rock pinnacles, at the western end of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, about 2 hours drive from Reykjavík. Together with the red and white lighthouse of Malariff, it’s a major tourist attraction along the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.
Following the peninsula coastline, along Road 574, you’ll arrive in Snæfellsjökull National Park from where it’s hard to miss the view of the two rocky peaks known as the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs.
At heights of 75 metres (246 feet) and 61 metres (200 feet) respectively, these iconic basalt rocks are all that remains of a volcanic crater that once existed here.
I found my way down to the shoreline, where I discovered this viewpoint of the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs, under late afternoon light, as the tide was coming in.
I was able to position myself in a way that allowed me to use the color and smoothness of the water to separate the foreground rocks from the distant hills and mountains.
This separation between textured and smooth areas, and between warm and cool colors, extends the sense of three dimensional space within the image.
The area is an important site for avian wildlife, with Atlantic puffin, kittiwake, common murre and fulmar nesting in the area. In fact there’s lots of fulmars and some puffins nesting in cavities within the pillars that form the basalt cliffs.
What’s more, the ground at the foot of the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs is covered in bird feathers, egg shells, and guano that testify to the thriving population of birds at this site.
While I didn’t see any during my visit, I’m told that it’s possible to see one or more Arctic foxes, scouring the area in search of food.
About to Travel?
Getting to Lóndrangar from Reykjavík
From Reykjavík the 192 km drive to Lóndrangar should take about 2 hours and 30 minutes. Here’s how to get there.
Take Ring Road 1 towards the town Mosfellsbær.
Then take the Hvalfjörður tunnel and keep following the Ring Road to the town of Borgarnes.
From Borgarnes take road 54 towards the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
Continue driving for around about an hour and then take a left turn towards Arnarstapi.
After about another 10 minutes driving you should arrive at the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs.
Lóndrangar Geology
The dramatic appearance of the basalt rock pinnacles at Lóndrangar has resulted in them being referred to as the rocky castle.
In addition to the view from the waterline, showcased at the top of this post, it’s possible to access cliffs close to the rocky pinnacles by following a mossy lava trail from the Visitor Centre.
Lóndrangar Folklore and Myth
The area around the cliffs at Lóndrangar is believed to belong to elves. It’s said that the elves live there which is, apparently, the reason local farmers don’t make use of the land near the pinnacles.
Not only that but, on a nearby cliff called Túfubjarg, Icelandic poet, Kolbeinn Jöklaskáld is said to have met with the devil and, through poetry, sent him back to hell.
I’m suddenly reminded of the story of Robert Johnson going down to the crossroads in Alabama and making a deal with the devil.
While Icelandic poet Kolbeinn Jöklaskáld defeated the devil, the legend surrounding Robert Johnson says Johnson actually sold his soul to the devil in exchange for being able to play the guitar better than anyone else.
A little research reveals that such deals are said to have occurred, on numerous occasions, throughout recorded history.
Saint Theophilus the Penitent, was said to have made a deal with the devil during the sixth century to gain a clerical position within the Christian church.
Likewise, there’s the legend of the scholar Faust who, motivated by dissatisfaction and ambition, made a deal with the devil for knowledge and worldly pleasures.
Seems to me like that’s a lot to trade for the loss of one’s soul. Though, of course, that’s the point of these legends and myths.
Malarrifsviti Lighthouse, Snaefellsnes Peninsula in West Iceland.
Malarrifsviti Lighthouse on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula
Located close to Londrangar is the Malarrifsviti Lighthouse. The original lighthouse was constructed in 1919, but was damaged by an earthquake. The current structure, measuring 20.2 meters in height, was built to replace it in 1946.
I was wandering the area, in search of beauty, when I discovered the Malarrifsviti Lighthouse in a field overlooking the sea.
It was a pretty, though somewhat unremarkable scene. However, as I approached the lighthouse the quality of the light improved and I made a few photos under late afternoon light.
While the lighthouse itself isn't so imposing, particularly from the distance and angle at which I photographed it, the cloud formations and the textural qualities within the field suggested it would look good if rendered into black and white.
I feel the extra drama produced by the black and white rendering did improve the result.
I very much like the light and dark tonal transitions between the sky and clouds and I believe that this warm tone, black and white version also adds to the feeling of nostalgia we experience when we see structures like lighthouses, whether in photos or in reality.
I remember taking care to position the horizon in the frame in such a way that allowed me to include those great clouds along the top edge of the photo.
After a quick look out to sea I decided to head down to the water’s edge, where I discovered the view of the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs at the very top of this post.
Picturesque Hellnar Church along the Snaefellsnes Peninsula in West Iceland.
Hellnar Church on Iceland’s Snaefellsnes Peninsula
You’ll find the red-roofed, white sided Hellnar church in the small fishing village of Hellnar on Iceland’s Snaefellsnes Peninsula.
Built in 1945, replacing the original structured dating back to 1880, the Hellnar church sits atop a hill overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.
Hellnar Church cemetery at night along the Snaefellsnes Peninsula in West Iceland.
Hellnar Church Cemetery, Snaefellsnes Peninsula, West Iceland
Arriving around dusk I had a lot of fun exploring and photographing the lovely cemetery situated just behind the church.
The light was gloomy and I remember feeling a little spooked as I entered through the gates of the cemetery. I remember a black crow alighted on the gates as I crossed the threshold, and I freely admit to having reservations about entering that space.
As I passed through the gate, with my butt cheeks clenched, it felt like I’d crossed an invisible barrier and, somehow, transitioned to a place outside of space and time.
But once I began to make photos, I lost myself so entirely in the process that any anxiety was replaced with energy and a sense of jubilation as I began to make interesting images.
Nonetheless, it was dark and quite eerie by the time I’d finished making photos at the Hellnar church cemetery. I was glad to get into the car and to be on my way to that nights accommodation.
“Nothing isn’t nothing. It’s just an absence of something.”
Ruins, fjord and mountain scenery on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, Iceland.
Conclusion: Visit Snaefellsnes Peninsula
There’s just so much to see and do in Iceland, and with attractions like the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs, the Malarrifsviti Lighthouse and the Hellnar church and cemetery, a day or more spent exploring the beautiful Snaefellsnes Peninsula is highly recommended.
To fit more attractions into your stay consider the following itinerary:
Take a dip in the geothermal baths at the Krauma Geothermal Spa.
Head over to Ólafsvík for some whale-watching.
Visit Hraunlandarif Beach for a horse ridding adventure amidst stunning scenery.
Take in the stunning scenery around Kirkjufell, often referred to as the most photographed mountain in all of Iceland.
Add some adventure to your visit with a visit to the magnificent Snaefellsnes Glacier.
Visit the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs and the Malarrifsviti Lighthouse.
Stop in and visit one or more local churches, like the Hellnar church or the more famous Black Church of Budir.
Sample local cuisine at The Grill House in Borgarnes.
Finally, end your day with a delicious meal at the Simple Café in Hellnar or The Grill House in Borgarnes.
Like so much else that I’ve done in Iceland, my brief excursion to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula was part of a much longer adventure. The images were all made on the same day after a decision to follow my intuition, rather than the main road.
That’s why, when ever I can, I’ll try to leave enough time in my schedule to take side trips and venture along side roads whenever I feel the need.
It’s a good strategy that’s served me well over the years, and the photos in this post are but a small sample of the special places you’ll discover by exploring Iceland’s lovely Snaefellsnes Peninsula.
I can’t wait until my next visit.
