San Telmo Guide, Buenos Aires: History, Tango, Markets and Food
Exterior view of San Pedro Gonzalez Telmo church in Buenos Aires, Argentina.
San Telmo offers Buenos Aires visitors a huge range of interesting and exciting tourist experiences. Here’s why San Telmo should be on your bucket list.
San Telmo is an historically rich and vibrant barrio in inner city Buenos Aires. The cobblestone streets around Plaza Dorrego are famous for markets, antiques, cafes and bars. Art galleries, street art and museums provide powerful visual experiences while up market tango venues offer late night fun.
A great starting place for your exploration of San Telmo would be the iconic Plaza Dorrego where Defensa Street and Humberto meet.
It’s a great place for steakhouses and antique stores but, better still, the famous Plaza Dorrego flea market happens here each and every Sunday.
It’s a lively place with lots of interesting trinkets worth purchasing and opportunities to watch and photograph all manner of street performers.
Table of Contents:
San Telmo History
Located just six blocks from the Plaza de Mayo and south of the popular La Boca San Telmo is the oldest barrio or neighborhood in Buenos Aires.
San Telmo began as a humble 17th century home for dockworkers and brick makers. These days its well preserved colonial buildings, cafes, tango parlors and antique shops have become a mecca for tourists visiting Buenos Aires.
What became known as the Residence is a charitable mission, also assisting with educational needs, that was established by the Jesuits to support the neighborhood.
Given San Telmo’s close connection with the sea the Parish of San Pedro González Telmo was established in honor of the Patron Saint of seafarers.
Over time San Telmo began to benefit from the success of its more prosperous citizens.
While the rich built beautiful homes all would have benefited from the establishment of cobblestone streets, street lighting, sewage and running water.
Things were certainly beginning to look good for the residents of San Telmo.
Yellow Fever 1871 Outbreak In San Telmo
Devastation hit the neighborhood with the 1871 yellow fever outbreak. 10,000 lives were lost and, as a consequence, many of San Telmo’s middle and upper class citizens moved into what became known as Barrio Norte.
Following this change in demographics, and in response to major waves of European immigration between 1875 and 1930, a lot of the barrio’s wealthier homes were turned into tenement housing.
As a result San Telmo become the most multicultural neighborhood in Buenos Aires.
Just one of the many benefits following on from this change in demographics was the construction of Argentina’s first Russian Orthodox Church in 1901.
Over the years many of immigrants moved out to other Buenos Aires neighborhoods. Local artists began moving in and, overtime, added their own identity to what’s now known as San Telmo.
Street musicians at Feria de San Telmo outdoor market, Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Tango Buenos Aires
Tango is an intimate and authentic Latin American dance that made Buenos Aires famous. Bringing together a fusion of cultures, in a city of immigrants, tango found its roots during the 1880's.
Coming out of the poorer port areas of the Río de la Plata, a border region between Argentina and Uruguay, tango seems to have been influenced by the African descendants living in that region.
Unsurprising for the time, tango was banned by the Catholic church as the music was said to reflect the immoral side of society. Fortunately for us all the ban was lifted following Argentina’s 1930 coup.
During the 1940’s and 1950’s, a period during which time Argentina flirted with a variety of political leaders and affiliations, tango became a symbol of solidarity in Argentina.
The tango is unique in that it’s so immersed in Argentinian life and culture.
Being totally improvised there's no basic step underpinning Argentine tango. That’s because internalizing one's experience of the music is a key component to the philosophy of the tango.
Two rhythms, marcato and síncopa, underpin the common tango. Marcato features a four beat rhythm while síncopa is an off beat pattern with a number of variations.
Ballroom tango is different in that it's based around an eight count following a repetitive four part pattern consisting of a series of slow, quick, quick and, finally, slow movements.
Milonga San Telmo
Dance parties or milongas allow locals and visitors, of varying social standing and dance expertise, to dance into the wee hours of the morning.
In fact the word Milonga is about as close as you can get to the blessed trinity of tango.
Milonga describes a type of tango music
Milonga is a style of dance performed to that music
Milonga is an organized event that people attend to dance tango
If you attend a milonga you may see maestros, accomplished dancers who travel the world teaching tango. You’ll certainly see tangureros who perform tango on stage in the San Telmo and La Boca neighborhoods.
DJ’s keep the dance floor pumping and orchestras and tango singers add to the mix in larger venues.
Such is the success of the tango and the devotion to it from amateur dancers, called milongueros, who travel to Buenos Aires from all over the world to attend milongas.
It’s true to say that San Telmo, to a large degree, is defined by the tango. Just be aware that most milongas don’t get going until after midnight.
Whether you attend a late night tango event or simply enjoy watching two tango performers outside a cafe or restaurant, I don’t believe a visit to San Telmo is complete without the tango.
On my next visit I think I’II give it a try.
San Telmo Market
Fronted by an impressive Italian facade the Mercado de San Telmo or San Telmo Market opened in 1897 to cater to the needs of the new wave of immigrants arriving from Europe.
Declared a National Historic Monument in the year 2000, Mercado de San Telmo was designed by local Italian born architect Juan Antonio Buschiazzo.
The structure features metal columns and beams, arches, sheet metal and glass roofing. A grand dome is a major feature in the centre of the building.
Inside you can purchase food, antiques, crafts, records and toys. While I don’t drink coffee the word on the street is that the Coffee Town stall at San Telmo Market makes the best coffee in Buenos Aires.
People from all over the world attend San Telmo Market to admire the antiques and to search out the authentic handicrafts on display.
The cobblestone streets and bohemian historic cafes around San Telmo Market really add to the vibe. After your own trip I think you’ll agree that a visit to San Telmo Market is a little like stepping back in time.
Just be aware that many stalls choose to only accept cash payments.
San Telmo Market Opening Hours
Tuesday to Friday from 10:30am to 7:30pm
Saturday, Sunday and public holidays from 9am till 8pm
It's worth noting that some stores only open on weekends. Sunday is the busiest day when the market receives large numbers of visitors.
If you want to see what's on offer, but prefer less hustle and bustle, a Saturday visit might be better.
How to Get to the San Telmo Market?
For many the easiest way to get to the San Telmo Market is to take the metro line D to Station Catedral or, alternatively, to take Line A to Station Plaza de Mayo.
Both stations will leave you at Plaza de Mayo, which is the main square in the city center. On one side of the Plaza you’ll find Defensa Street. San Telmo Market is just a few blocks along Defensa.
Plaza Dorrego San Telmo
Plaza Dorrego is a lively and colorful square in the heart of the San Telmo neighborhood. Dating back to 1887 it’s green awnings, checkered tile floors and wooden interiors provide a nostalgic look back to a more glorious past.
Plaza Dorrego, which is surrounded by bars and cafes, becomes the focal point for a bustling arts and antiques fair every Sunday known as the Feria de San Telmo.
The place becomes alive with tango, musicians, mime artists and clowns all performing on the street.
Several of the restaurants provide outdoor seating which allows you to watch the fun in comfort.
Likewise, if you find you need a break, seek out one of several nearby bars. As they also sell coffee and food they’re a great place to go if you need a rest or a reprieve from all the excitement.
Trinkets at the Feria de San Telmo outdoor market, Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Feria de San Telmo
The Feria de San Telmo (i.e., San Telmo Fair) is an open air crafts and antique market created in 1970 by architect José María Peña.
Comprising almost 300 stalls the fair takes place, in and around Plaza Dorrego, every Sunday between 10 am and 4 pm.
It’s the ideal place to find a souvenir from your time in Buenos Aires. I’m not a shopper, but I couldn’t resist picking up a beautiful photographer figurine during my visit to Feria de San Telmo.
Regularly attracting around 10,000 visitors, many of them international, Feria de San Telmo offers a range of items including the following:
Antiques
Old furnishings and ornaments
Paintings
Collectable toys
Clocks
Old advertising signs
Soda siphons
Vinyl records
Old coins and photos
Books and magazines
Clothes
This image of old world trinkets was made at Feria de San Telmo outdoor market in the Plaza Dorrego.
I made the image at the end of a photography tour I co-ran to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia and the Antarctic Peninsular.
Most of the participants had, by this stage, either begun their travels home or continued their adventures elsewhere.
It was great fun wandering around the busy streets, crammed with stalls, street performers and the odd pair of tango dancers.
I really enjoyed my visit and these old world trinkets really caught my eye.
In particular it was the tent, in which the stall was housed, that provided a lovely, delicate light that enhanced the glow on the surface of the brass and copper objects.
I'd go as far to say the interaction of the light on the surface of the subjects added a real luminous quality to the image, which I found irresistible.
Needless to say I'm very glad I made this photo as I feel the warmth and glow in the image helps to communicate the nostalgia we associate with this kind of old world subject matter.
The fair has become such a success that stalls now extend around the surrounding streets. Not only does this provide more choice, but also more variety.
While most of the stalls at Plaza Dorrego sell antiques, Calle Defensa offers more contemporary craft and Pasaje Giuffra is the place to go for clothing.
Local restaurants and street food sellers prepare and sell great from stalls set up within the market. What’s more you’ll likely witness street performances from tango dancers, mime artists and musicians.
If you like markets then Feria de San Telmo must surely be one of the world’s best.
Crucifixion of Jesus, San Pedro Gonzalez Church in San Telmo, Buenos Aires.
Churches in San Telmo
You’ll find a range of beautiful and historic churches in the San Telmo barrio including the following:
San Pedro Gonzalez Telmo Church
Santísima Trinidad Russian Orthodox Church
Iglesia Dinamarquesa
Iglesia Sueca
As well as offering a place for spiritual reflection these churches offer a reprieve from the often busy San Telmo streets.
If you have the time I’d recommend you investigate San Telmo’s lovely churches.
Expansive interior at San Pedro Gonzalez Telmo church in Buenos Aires, Argentina.
San Pedro Gonzalez Telmo Church
The impressive San Pedro Gonzalez Telmo church is one of Buenos Aires oldest churches. Also known as the Nuestra Señora de Belėn it dates back to 1734.
Construction originally commenced under Jesuit architects. However, it was the Bethlemite religious order who completed the neo-colonial project.
Additional restoration was undertaken in 1942 and the cloisters were restored to their full glory in 2000.
You’ll find San Pedro Gonzalez Telmo church at Humberto 1º, between Defensa and Balcarce in San Telmo. Opening hours are as follows:
Monday to Saturday from 8:30 am to 12 noon and then from 4pm till 7pm.
Sunday from 8:30am till 8pm.
Santísima Trinidad Russian Orthodox Church
Santísima Trinidad Russian Orthodox church is a 17th century Muscovite style church in the San Telmo neighborhod.
Built between 1898 and 1901 the church was originally designed by the architect of Russia’s Holy Synod, Mihail Preobrazensky. His design was later adapted by Alejandro Christophersen.
In line with Russian custom each of the church’s distinctive blue domes is topped with a cross, supported by chains, that face towards the East.
Two notable works are featured on the church’s facade.
A mosaic image of the holy trinity imported from St. Petersburg
Three individual scenes from the bible
There’s a museum inside Santísima Trinidad church which includes pieces of interest dating back over 200 years.
You’ll find Santísima Trinidad church located alongside Parque Lezama at Av. Brasil 315 in San Telmo.
San Telmo street performer providing curious interactions with those passing by.
Things To Do in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
The great news is that San Telmo is jammed with art, culture and fantastic architecture. There are literally dozens of art spaces, galleries and beautiful buildings worth investigating. Here’s just a few:
Comic Strip Walk
Museo Histórico Nacional
Museo de Arte Moderno
Pasaje Defensa
Solar de French
Casa Mínima
Parque Lezama
Comic Strip Walk
Paseo de la Historieta or Comic Strip Walk is an open air sculpture trail in San Telmo that’s dedicated to popular Argentine comic strip characters.
Ideally situated within a pedestrian friendly zone you’ll find the statues and street art depicted to be fun and great fodder for your Argentina travel photography portfolio.
Museo Histórico Nacional
The National Historical Museum, known locally as Museo Histórico Nacional, first opened its doors to the public in 1897.
Housed in a former mansion you’ll find the lovely Museo Histórico Nacional located on the edge of beautiful Parque Lezama gardens at Defensa 1600 in the San Telmo barrio.
The bright blue domes of the Russian Orthodox Cathedral Church of the Holy Trinity is on the north side of the park and two of Buenos Aires historic bars, the El Británico and El Hipopótamo, are nearby.
The museum does a good job representing the evolution of Argentine identity and the many historic processes that led to the country’s formation.
Allow plenty of time for your excursion to the National Historical Museum and you’ll also be able to include these other great sites on your visit.
While a lot of attention is placed upon the May Revolution and the Argentine War of Independence history buffs will appreciate displays that reference the following:
Argentina’s indigenous peoples
The Spanish conquest
Colonial control
May Revolution
19th century Porteño society at the time of Argentina’s independence
San Martín’s crossing of the Andes
The historic flag that General Manuel Belgrano carried into battle in 1812, and an important symbol of independence, is on display.
The flag was donated to the museum by the government of Bolivia in 1896. It had been hidden from opposition forces, behind a painting in the parish of Macha in Bolivia, by Belgrano’s troops.
One of the other cultural gems on display is the piano belonging to Mariquita Sánchez de Thompson.
It was on this very instrument that the first version of what was to become Argentina’s national anthem was played.
The famous curved saber of General José de San Martin is also on display. Carried into battle on numerous occasions this weapon is considered to be a symbol of the liberation of South America from colonial control.
Some of the other important artifacts of historical importance on display at the Museo Histórico Nacional include the following:
Independence hero Mariano Moreno’s cigar box
A version of the national shield originally displayed in October 1812 at the entrance to what’s referred to as the Assembly of Year XIII
Beautiful battlefield paintings are also on display including the oil paintings by artist Cándido López that document the War of the Triple Alliance.
To get the full story behind many of these wonderful works of art, and the history that surrounds them, enquiry about a guided tour. They’re available in Spanish and also in English.
Museo de Arte Moderno
The Museo de Arte Moderno, otherwise known as the Buenos Aires Museum of Modern Art, was created in 1956 by art critic Rafael Squirru.
You’ll find this impressive museum at Av. San Juan 350 in San Telmo.
After moving to its current site, a 19th century British brick and iron building, in 1989 the Museo de Arte Moderno underwent a major restoration in 2010.
Housing an impressive collection in excess of 7,000 works of art, the museum includes works from major Argentinian artists from 1940 to 1970.
What’s more works from major European artists in the collection including the following:
Henri Matisse
Joan Miró
Pablo Picasso
Salvador Dali
Pasaje Defensa in San Telmo
Once the home of the distinguished Ezeiza family, and formerly a school for the deaf, this small 1870’s site now operates as a quirky bohemian shopping space.
A fun place to visit you’ll enjoying walking around this site and searching out the various antiques, paintings and souvenirs on display.
Pasaje Defensa is located at Defensa 1179.
Solar de French Shopping Arcade
Situated at Defensa 1066 this shopping arcade is a good place to discover vintage items, jewelry, handicrafts, colorful toys and bric a brac.
The building housing Solar de French originally belonged to Domingo French who was famous for his part in Argentina’s 1810 revolution.
French and Antonio Luis Beruti distributed blue and white arm bands to differentiate independence supporters from Royalists at the entrance to the cities colonial town hall: the Cabildo.
The front section of the Solar de French dates back to the early 20th century and includes several shops and a restaurant with a view of the Plaza Dorrego.
The rest of this historic site features neocolonial architecture dating back to the 1930's.
Casa Mínima: Famous San Telmo Architecture
At only 2 ½ meters wide Casa Mínima is famous for being the narrowest house in Buenos Aires. Included as part of a number of local tours you’ll find this unique and quirky site at San Lorenzo 380 in the San Telmo barrio.
Originally part of an 1820’s home Casa Mínima offers a simple facade with a green door and a balcony fronted with iron bars.
Apparently tiny homes like this were built for former slaves who, upon receiving their freedom, were granted tiny pieces of land adjoining the houses of their former masters.
Other than it’s cute appearance what makes Casa Mínima important is that it’s the only example of such a house remaining in Buenos Aires.
That alone makes it worth a visit.
Parque Lezama: Sculpture Collection in Garden Park
You’ll find Parque Lezama located on the corner of Defensa and Brazil. It’s a lush garden park that’s open, 24 hours a day, to the general public.
Once belonging to the Lezama family the park’s hilly walkways and spectacular jacaranda trees provide a pleasant, green space to explore.
Popular with sunbathers, Parque Lezama features a large collection of sculptures which provide a visual feast for visitors and offer interesting subject matter for photographers.
Glenn Guy and Feria de San Telmo market photographer figurine, Buenos Aires.
Cafes and Restaurants in San Telmo
I found the quality of food and overall cleanliness of restrooms in Buenos Aires to be quite high. In fact I ate the best beef steak in my life in the city.
However, not being a fan of melted cheese, I learned to be careful with what I ordered. I kid you not it was like “would you like some pizza with your cheese sir”.
Of the many wonderful cafes and restaurants in the busy San Telmo neighborhood here’s a few worth checking out.
La Brigada Steakhouse
El Desnivel Restaurant
El Viejo Almacén Restaurant
La Antigua Tasca de Cuchilleros
Bar Sur
Grupo San Telmo
La Brigada Steakhouse
La Brigada steakhouse offers a timeless dinning experience. Serving juicy steak on white linen tablecloths you’ll enjoy the elaborate decor, dominated by gaucho memorabilia.
You find La Brigada Steakhouse at 465 Estados Unidos in San Telmo.
El Desnivel Restaurant, San Telmo
Once a tiny, little known affair El Desnivel Restaurant has become a very popular San Telmo eatery. And with good reason.
While the name of the restaurant translates as disorganized, that probably best reflects the nature of the interior which features plastic tables, assorted wooden chairs and less than stellar decor.
But the fun is, primarily, in the food.
You’ll find fat-dripping steaks cooked on a large grill as you enter this often loud and boisterous eatery. Just some of the delicious dishes that await you include the following:
Juicy and tender steaks
Meat stuffed empanadas
Chorizo sandwiches known as chorripans
You’ll find El Desnivel Restaurant at 855 Defensa in San Telmo.
El Viejo Almacén Restaurant
Beginning its life as a neighborhood store in the 1760’s, and operating as a British hospital in the 1840’s, the El Viejo Almacén Restaurant is a site of cultural interest.
Located in the heart of San Telmo, on the corner of Av. Independencia and Balcarce, the building was purchased by singer and composer Edmundo Rivero in 1969 and converted into a tango venue.
The food’s good and the venue hosts a nightly tango show.
La Antigua Tasca de Cuchilleros, San Telmo
Located in Buenos Aires oldest adobe building, dating back to 1729, the now heavily restored La Antigua Tasca de Cuchilleros restaurant serves classic Argentine meat, pasta and fried empanadas.
You’ll find this beautiful and reasonably priced restaurant close to Plaza Dorrego at Carlos Calvo 319 in San Telmo.
Bur Sur: Bar, Food and Live Tango Show
Bar Sur, named for its location on the south side of Buenos Aires original city limits, is located at Estados Unidos 299.
Opening in 1967 this quite opulent bar features Viennese style furnishings and a lovely chequerboard limestone floor.
Tapas, stews, vegetable pies and empanadas feature on the menu and in the evenings you’ll be able to enjoy a live tango show.
If you looking for great food in a nostalgic setting Bur Sur would be a great option.
Grupo San Telmo
Grupo San Telmo is a cafe where you can enjoy breakfast, brunch or a range of snacks throughout the day.
Grupo San Telmo specializes in locally sourced ingredients and offers delicious mediterranean fare as well as steak cooked in classic Argentinian parrilla style.
The cafe is a popular nightly venue with a great atmosphere. What’s more it offers an extensive gin and tonic menu.
Glenn Guy with a local retailer and a friend in San Telmo.
Is San Telmo Safe For Travelers?
Buenos Aires is not the safest city in the world and care needs to be taken as our camera equipment, as well as our wallets, can provide a tempting target for thieves.
Prior to my visit I was warned that Buenos Aires was, in fact, quite dangerous. Upon arrival a local guide suggested that, like many other big cities, it was wise to exercise a degree of caution in some parts of town.
However, if you take the necessary precautions, including not drawing too much attention to yourself you should be fine.
My own aim is to move around discretely and in as unobtrusive a manner as possible. I’m fortunate in that I dress for comfort and give no thought to fashion.
But I’m a guy and life’s easier for me in that regard.
My advice, whether you’re traveling overseas or exploring your own neighborhood, would be to do the following:
Seek the exotic
Embrace the madness
Revel in the chaos
Find sanctuary in the commonplace
Needless to say it’s essential to always do so in a way that minimizes the risk of danger.
The fact is that, unlike the Palermo or Recoleta neighborhoods, the tourist area of San Telmo barrio is close to some less than savory parts of town.
My camera gear can be a tempting target and, not wanting to advertise myself as a professional photographer, I minimize risk by traveling with two camera bags which I manage as follows.
My camera kit is packed into a backpack for flights and for landscape photography adventures.
A smaller and relatively nondescript courier bag, which doesn’t look like it’s holding camera gear, is used for street photography excursions.
Naturally it’s wise to avoid dark alleyways and rougher neighborhoods, particularly if you’re not familiar with these parts of town.
But by paying attention and taking care many great opportunities await the keen photographer.
Where possible it’s often a good idea to have someone with you, to keep an eye out in case of trouble, when you’re out and about making photos.
Nonetheless the tourist friendly areas of San Telmo are considered safe, though it’s always a good idea to check the situation on the ground with local tourism authorities or the hotel at which you’re staying.
Sometimes local public transport options might result in you having to walk through a seedy part of town to get to where you want to go.
What might seem interesting during daylight hours could turn out to be quite dangerous at night as you make your way back to the train station or your hotel.
If you’re not staying in the middle of the action in San Telmo consider taking a cab that will take you there. That’s what my friends and I did and things worked out just fine.
However, on the way to San Telmo, my photography buddies and I decided to checkout an interesting part of town that had a less pleasant reputation.
It was fun, but we made sure to stay in groups of two or three so as not to become isolated. I’d have to say that I met some really lovely locals, but also a couple of pretty rough and ready types.
If you have any doubts consider signing up with a local tour guide as much of Buenos Aires is well suited to walking tours. In fact the local tourism board runs free daily guided walking tours.
Like a lot of other South American countries Argentina has had problems over the years with good governance.
Nonetheless, the country has a fascinating history and the people of Argentina are proud and passionate. I must say I liked them a lot.
Is Tap Water Safe In Buenos Aires
Argentina is a modern country and my research indicates that it offers its citizens decent levels of health care and dental services.
Stomach problems are one of the most common aliments that inflict travelers. Discomfort, embarrassment and, in some case, a ruined trip can result from a serious stomach infection.
I’ve had my share of pretty serious stomach infections which is why it remains my practice, in many parts of the world, to drink bottled water when I travel.
There are parts of the world where I also use bottled water to clean my teeth. Once, in desperation, I cleaned my teeth with the aid of Coca-Cola, as I considered it a far safer option than the local tap water.
While it’s always a good idea to check before arriving at your destination the good news is that tap water is generally considered safe to drink throughout Argentina.
San Telmo Is A Brilliant Travel Destination
I only had a few days in Buenos Aires but was quite taken with the place. I hope to return one day, ideally on my next trip to Antarctica.
The city area bears the marks of history. Street upon street of somewhat dilapidated buildings tell the tale of the grandeur of by-gone days.
Buenos Aires is a beautiful city with a rich and turbulent history. I hope to be able to spend several weeks in Argentina on my next visit and I’II want to dedicate at least a week to further exploring barrios like San Telmo.
